The city that stopped in time. Varanasi.

Ghats. Alleys. Body cremation. Cows. The Ganges. But one needs more words to describe Varanasi, and definitely more days to spend in this amazing city.

To feel Varanasi, let its vibes penetrate your mind and emotions. I have spent 10 days there, which is far more then I had planned. This city doesn’t look like anything like I’ve seen in India before. Just like India itself, Varanasi will startle you with incredible contradictions, but don’t resist – it’s actually charming!

The old city

Varanasi makes you feel like you are centuries back in the past. Narrow, tiny alleys don’t give a chance to find the way, but keep a cool and pleasant temperature to save you from the strong heat of an Indian summer. If locals didn’t use mobile phones, I would actually feel like being in ancient times. People still clean their teeth, “take a bath” and do their laundry in the river. Long ranges of washed clothes, bed sheets and covers are stretched out to dry under the sun on the stairs called Ghats. People iron clothes in the streets and still use huge antique coal irons.

The new city

Of course not all Varanasi is like that. I suppose people in the old and new cities are different too. So called modern Varanasi is, in fact, just a smaller version of Delhi. Here you will encounter crowds of students, malls(I think, there are two) and shops. You can escape from the dusty crowded streets of Varanasi, hiding in the cool green parks of the local University.

Anyway, the Old city and Ghats of the Ganges are still the main focus of attention for tourists. You’ll be impressed by the quantity of cows walking in the streets. I haven’t seen as many cows in other cities. They climb on the Ghats, walk in the narrow alleys and in the streets of the new city. Just pay attention on the road while walking, if you don’t want to step in their ‘traps ‘.

Cremation

Varanasi is famous for this. If you know something about Hinduism and Indian mythology, I bet you’ve heard about reincarnations and the Samsara circle. To make it simple – our soul has to endure the circle of tiring reincarnations, and to find peace it has to “work off” karma. According to Hindu belief, to avoid it you have to be cremated after death and the ash has to be spread into the river. The Ganges is considered as a holy river.

After watching loads of horrible photographs on the Internet, I mentally prepared myself to be completely terrified by the Cremation Ceremonies. But honestly speaking, if you expect a horror movie you will be disappointed. Bodies are covered by special fabric, so you can’t really see anything. Even though the idea itself gives me goose bumps, it still didn’t look that terrifying.

Accommodation

Despite its popularity among tourists, in Varanasi you will not find the same variety of accommodation as, for instance, in Delhi. However, you will still be able to find decent hotels, guest houses and rooms to rent, depending on your preferences and finance. But be careful and check all the details in advance, if you don’t want to end up spending the night in a room full of cockroaches and rats. Don’t forget to ask about an air conditioner and hot water in the room. It’s just a matter of difference between European and Indian standards, because, in this case as I’ve mentioned before, hot water and cleanness are obvious advantages.

Food

Since Varanasi is a tourist place, in any restaurant you will find menus with continental food. Unfortunately, a lack of regional products, knowledge and recipes influences a lot, and you might be disappointed. I have to admit though, that in one bakery we found really good French and American pancakes (French ones are called crêpes). It’s remarkable to find well-cooked European desserts in India. I really mean it. Because all my trials to find good croissants or cheesecakes failed.

In India I always preferred Indian and Asian cuisine. Not only is it delicious, but it’s also authentic, fresh and very well-cooked.

An interesting fact

Varanasi is famous for saris – female dresses. Sometimes they can cost thousands or even tens of thousands of rupees. You will see sari shops at every step. Saris are mostly made of silk and designed individually, that’s why they are so costly.

In conclusion

Varanasi vibes are charming, inimitable and spiritual. In the morning, during the day and at night it looks completely different. A boat trip on the Ganges is an absolute must for you! From the river, the city looks stunning. You have to get up at 5 am to get a boat ride and enjoy the morning haze of Varanasi before the sun and unbearable heat will come up. There are plenty of temples in Varanasi, but I didn’t have purpose to visit them all. I prefer walking in the streets and alleys of the ancient city, trying to catch all the details of everyday life and culture.

Other cities haven’t stunned me as much as Varanasi did. And who knows, maybe one day I will go back there.

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