Italian city, which people only pass by, or how I fell in love with Genoa

The author: Bazhena Pampura
7 мар. 2017 г.
5 мин. чтения

Italy is a country for foodies and beauty lovers, everything there is delicious and beautiful.

I have been to many Italian cities and I could say I’ve visited the most popular ones. The worst thing is that under this marketing illusion you don’t understand if you really like the city itself. For example, I wasn’t really as stunned by Venice as I should have been. Anyways, tastes differ.

In this article I’m going to talk about the city of Genoa where people usually don’t stay longer then a couple of days. They travel on cruises, and literally pass it by for excursion and go back to the shipboard.

I spent a few months in Genoa because my friends studied there. We met during their internship in Russia. I didn’t regret choosing Genoa for a second. Even now, as I write this article, the strong feeling of missing this marvelous city hurts me. Genoa feels like home.

I'm not going to create a long what-to-do-in-Genoa list, this you can find on Google. Interestingly enough, one of the reasons why I am writing this article is because that when I lived there, every now and then, I would be searching for interesting blogs about Genoa. But to my astonishment, all I found was what-to-do and where-to-go lists or Wikipedia-like information. Let's share the authentic experience!

Genoa used to be one of the most powerful Maritime Republics in Italy. Its historical center literally sends you back to another era.

The Endless labyrinths of the narrow alleys

I’m the kind of person who is terribly bad at orientation and afraid to get suddenly lost. Genova was a real challenge for me and helped in conquering this fear.

Even the Genoese get lost in the historical centre's tiny narrow cobbled alleys. Forget about the map, it won’t help you! Vicoli (alleys in Italian) surrounded by tall buildings which don’t let day light penetrate there, are just a couple of meters wide. I’ve never experienced something like this!

For travelers who would spend more than one day in Genova, I would recommend to get lost fearlessly and embark on this delightful adventure.

The green window wings on every single window, called «persiane» in Italian, add even more quasi-medieval authenticity. They're closed at night, preventing the morning light's penetration and opened in the morning or when needed.

I have to admit, that Genoa is very cozy in terms of living. The favorable climate, the proximity of the sea and cleanliness are obvious advantages. Apart from that, sounds of foreign languages and street music fill your ears and your soul with free spirits and genuine enjoyment of life.

Columbus issue

Genova is considered as the Motherland of Christopher Columbus. That may be the reason why the Italians and Spanish are still arguing about where he comes from. My Genoese friend, who speaks Spanish well told me, that he had a lot of debates to this point and still does. Columbus’ Birth House is apparently situated in Genoa, even if there is no firm proof of it. Fair enough, because many centuries have passed since that moment!

Locals

My Italian friends mentioned before weren’t born in Genoa, they just studied there. They don’t like locals much. The Genoese’s reputation among Italians is not impeccable. It is good to know that in Italy the southern and the northern regions live in some kind of endless competition. Every region has its own accent, cuisine and specific characteristics. As an example, a Genoese will recognize a Neapolitan by accent in two shakes. Historically, Italy was not united until XIX century and moreover, modern Italian is a relatively young language. Every region had its own dialect or language (some still partially present) before Dante Alighieri and his "Divine Comedy" had a big impact on the language's formation. Returning to the question of Genoese, they are considered as greedy, closed people, who are always complaining. If there were ever reasons for the Genovese to be unfriendly, history would explain it well. When Genoa used to be the most powerful and the richest Maritime Republic, it was, without a doubt, very attractive for conquerors. Strangers have never been welcomed in this seaport, as you never know what to expect.

In my experience, the Genoese definitely have some peculiarities, but they are generally nice and friendly. Everyone has their own little quirks and twists. I can only assume that the truth is somewhere in between, this reputation certainly doesn’t come out of the blue.

The Motherland of pesto

If you are a lover of Italian cuisine, there is no doubt you have at least heard of pesto. This tasty delight comes from Genoa, it's made of basil, which grows naturally in the region. Be sure it’s the best one! Even if you find pesto in other regions, like Sicily, it will be completely different and incomparable with the Genovese pesto. Why don’t they just export it abroad or at least in other regions? Freshly made pesto is a perishable product indeed. It’s made of fresh basil, olive oil, and Gran Padano cheese. The subtle flavor of Genoese pesto is unique. Later on, I tried to order pesto pasta in different countries and expensive restaurants, but eventually, I was utterly disappointed. That’s the beauty of regional cuisine: it tempts you to come back and enjoy unique and delicious food over and over again.

Genoa is also famous for its focaccia bread which is often eaten fresh for breakfast.

The seaside and the relief

Liguria – is a sea region. Indeed, one of the biggest advantages in Genoa is the Ligurian seaside, which offers you a big variety of resorts. Geographically, Genoa and its communes are strung out all along the coastline. Going to the beach after work and during the weekends is a part of the Genoese routine. The beaches are mostly pebbled, the sea is clean and the landscapes are breathtaking – you don’t even have to use filters on your Instagram!

The terrain defines the architecture principles in many ways, which is, in the case of Genoa an aesthetic advantage. The Ligurian coastline and mountains are situated too close to each other, that's why the city is literally built on the hills. Even in the historical center you will notice the trails endlessly going up and down. In Genoa many unexpectedly breathtaking points of view are hidden because of the hill-riddled terrain.

Ligurian language

Like many Italian regions, Liguria has its own language, which, just as Italian, derives from Latin. Unless you have mastered a couple of Latin-based languages you probably won’t be able to understand the Genoese language. It is interesting to know, that young Genoese people don’t necessarily use it and sometimes don’t even understand it. Nowadays, regional languages in Italy are mostly used by the older generations. Accents and dialects are still very strong, though. By the way, my Italian now has an intense Genoese accent. I wouldn't even notice, unless my Neapolitan friend cracked jokes about it. It's so Italian to make fun of each other's accents.

To me Genoa consists of hilly relief, street musicians, green “persiane”, pesto, focaccia, narrow alleys in the historical center and colorful houses built on the mountains dissolving in the unforgettable landscapes of Genoa. You will never find another city like this anywhere else.